BUDAPEST GUIDE

I - Budapest : the pearl of the Danube
II - Budapest: City of therapeutic waters
III - Budapest : City of Culture and Entertainment
IV - Budapest : transports

- I - Budapest : the pearl of the Danube

The city is divided into two parts, the hilly side of Buda on the western bank and the flat plain of Pest on the eastern bank of the river Danube. These two parts of the city were once separate towns and were merged together with Ancient Buda (Óbuda) only in 1873.

BUDA:

*Buda Castle (Budai Vár):
The name Buda Castle covers more than a castle or the Royal Palace in the capital city; it extends to the historical quarter full of sites. On bright spring days people invite friends for a "walk in the Castle", i.e. to wander around the Castle Hill quarter. The most exiting way of getting to the Castle is by taking the Funicular, a little cable car up the Castle Hill.
The main sights in this area are the Royal Palace, the Castle District, Fishermen's Bastion and Matthias Church.

*Gellért Hill (Gellért hegy):
The hill (that some believe used to be the meeting place of witches) today offers the most beautiful panoramic view of the city. The hill was named after Bishop Gellért (Gerald) renowned for propagating Christianity in Hungary. Tradition has it that he was sealed up in a barrel and thrown into the river Danube from the hill by insurgent pagan Magyars rebelling against Christendom after the death of our first king St. Stephen. The terraces of the Citadel built on the hilltop offer the best view of the city, and telescopes help one to catch all the details. It was built by the Austrians after the repression of the 1848-1849 War of Independence to provide military control over the town.
Liberation Monument, the statue of a woman visible from almost any point in town, was erected in 1947 to commemorate liberation from Nazi occupation. (The statue of the Soviet soldier which was removed from the monument in 1992 can be seen in the Statue Park Museum.) Firework rockets marking August 20 every year are launched from this point on Gellért Hill.
The northern slope of the hill is known as Tabán. Prior to the thirties this was a densely populated area full of one-storied houses, among them well-known restaurants and pubs. In 1933, the houses of Tabán were demolished for sanitary reasons. Deer House (Szarvas ház) still maintains the old Tabán spirit. Today, Tabán is popular with families and children in winter when the first snows fall as the hill is ideal for sledging. In the summer, folk and rock concerts are organized on the hill slope. When on the hill, take a look at the two slabs of the original Berlin Wall erected here. Several thermal baths are located in the close vicinity of Tabán: Rác Baths, Rudas Baths and Gellért Spa Baths, the latter also featuring a four-star hotel.

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Connecting the two parts of town, Buda and Pest:

*Chain Bridge (Lánchíd): The first permanent bridge over the Danube. Budapest owes its construction to Count István Széchenyi who had to wait a week before he could cross the river to bury his father. This is when he decided to build a permanent crossing for the city. Architect William Clark and namesake Adam Clark supervised construction works; the bridge was finally completed in 1849. It has since rightly become a symbol of Budapest city, a magnificent sight when illuminated at night. In 1999 a monumental ceremony and the installation of new floodlights marked the 150th anniversary of the bridge.
*Elisabeth Bridge (Erzsébet híd): The bridge bears the name of Queen Elisabeth. (A statue on the Buda side of the bridge stands in memory of Elisabeth, the queen very much liked by the Hungarians.) Originally built in Eclectic style, the bridge was blown up by retreating German troops in 1945 and was so badly damaged that reconstruction was out of the question. A new bridge was thus constructed in its place with the same span as the original.
*Liberty Bridge (Szabadság híd): The bridge was inaugurated in 1896 as part of the monumental series of ceremonies organized to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the arrival of the Magyars in the Carpathian Basin. The third bridge on the river, it was originally named after Francis Joseph: the Emperor himself ceremonially fixed the last rivet on the bridge. Unable to escape its fate, this bridge was also blown up during the war, but was later rebuilt.
*Margaret Bridge (Margit híd): The second permanent bridge in Budapest built between 1872 and 1876 based on the plans of a French architect. There is an embranchment from the middle pillar onto Margaret Island - the only section of the bridge still maintaining the original structure.
*Margaret Island (Margitsziget): Budapest's finest green spot is Margaret Island (Margitsziget) located in the middle of the river Danube between Margaret Bridge and Árpád Bridge. Originally there were three islands here, the islands of Spa, Pictor and Rabbits. These were framed with a common concrete shore as part of river regulation efforts in the 19th century and so the 2.5-kilometre-long island was formed.
The island was already inhabited by Roman times; in the Middle Ages monks preferred the island for its calm and kings for its excellent hunting. The island bears the name of Margit (Margaret), daughter of King Béla IV (Adalbert), who renounced the world and entered the island's convent after surviving the rampage of the Tatars in the 13th century. The Turkish occupation in the 15th century put an abrupt end to the cloister island's blossoming. After centuries of neglect, the island was reborn in the 19th century when an open park and entertainment centre was opened to the general public. This was made possible by the Margaret Bridge embranchment built to the island in 1900, opening the island to pedestrians.
Today, the 100 hectares of parkland is kept peaceful and quiet by being sealed off to most vehicular traffic. Park your car at the northern end of the island and rent a "family bike" known as a Bringóhintó Cycle Car, or take a healthy walk through the island. Budapest joggers plan their routes along the island's embankments.
The park is beautiful and very varied: century-old chestnut avenues, English, Japanese and French gardens alternate with ruins of a nunnery, an old water tower and a wide range of sports facilities. The island has the largest open-air swimming complex in Budapest, the Palatinus, and a fine outdoor theatre.
The northern section of the island is home of the turn-of-the-century Grand Hotel Margitsziget and the modern Thermal Hotel Margitsziget, the latter offering thermal spa and state-of-the-art medical services using thermal water springs on the island to cure different types of locomotor disorders.

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PEST:

*Parliament (V. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3.)
Built at the turn of the century, the building of the Parliament quickly became a dominant sight and symbol of Budapest and the Danube panorama. A typically Eclectic edifice with a lot of small spikes and stone lace ornamentation, it is one of the most decorative structures of the capital. It also ranks as one of the biggest national assemblies in the world.
Majestic stone lions flank the VIP entrance taking visitors to the magnificent staircase leading to the cupola room, home of the most elegant state receptions. Two symmetric wings open up from here, for what used to be the Lower and the Upper House of the pre-communist parliament. The rich interior and gorgeous decoration of the Parliament building are well worth seeing as part of a guided tour.

*Hungarian State Opera House (VI. Andrássy út 22.)
Budapest is proud of possessing one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world. The opening performance of the Opera House was held in the neo-Renaissance building, the jewel of the avenue, in 1884 after nine years of construction. The staircase and the auditorium of the palace, designed by one of the best architects of those days Miklós Ybl, are decorated with frescos of eminent Hungarian painters such as Bertalan Székely, Mór Thán and Károly Lotz. The first director was Ferenc Erkel, Gustav Mahler held this post for several years, and Puccini directed the premiere of two of his operas here. Renowned guest conductors include Otto Klemperer, Sergio Failoni and Lamberto Gardelli. It is still one of the best opera houses in Europe. Well worth a visit, even for those who do not especially like operas.

*Andrássy Avenue (VI. Andrássy út)
Budapest's first elegant metropolitan avenue artificially constructed late 19th century after the unification of Buda and Pest. The avenue sets off as a typical downtown main road with high-rise apartment houses and continues as a wider, spacious, greener tree-lined avenue bordered with majestic villas.
The Hungarian State Opera House and the Pest Broadway are other precious treasures of Andrássy Avenue.

*Vörösmarty Square (V. Vörösmarty Ter)
If anywhere, the city centre starts here on Vörösmarty Square. Váci Street, the pedestrian main street of downtown Budapest, sets out from here and the square holds the two most popular cafés of the capital: old Gerbeaud and trendy Art Café. The square is always busy and full of life. Anyone in town will surely drop by, and if the weather is fine take a coffee on a terrace or rest on a bench, and when the weather turns cold sit behind a café window.

*Váci Street (V. Váci utca)
This was the first street in Budapest to be pedestrianized, but it was one of the best places for shopping long before this change. The street was formed in the 18th century but most houses date back to the 19th and early 20th century. It quickly became the shopping centre and later the esplanade of the Pest side. As the mid-day or evening promenade in Váci Street slowly became a fashionable leisure activity for the "well-to-do" in the last century, shops grew more and more expensive and later only the most exclusive merchants could afford to open an outlet on the street. The street has been marked by a certain exclusivity ever since.

*St. Stephen's Basilica (V. Szent István tér)
Construction of the largest church of the capital (seating 8,500 persons) was beset by vicissitudes. No sooner did the groundwork begin when the War of Independence broke out in 1848, then construction was resumed in 1851, followed by the immediate death of the two architects, and even the dome collapsed during the works. The church with a Greek cross plan was finally consecrated in 1905.
With the river Danube in the vicinity, huge foundations and three underground levels had to be laid under the church, resulting in an underground "house" almost as large as on the surface. It took 60 years and two architectural époques - Classicism and Eclecticism - to build the Basilica. Special works of art present the life of King St. Stephen - in whose name the basilica was dedicated - founder of the Hungarian State and Christian Church in Hungary.
A grandiose cupola dominates the edifice offering visitors a good view of the city from its rim. From the unique 360-degree circular lookout you can admire Budapest from a height of 65 meters. A modern and secure elevator will take you most of the way up, from where you climb to the circular lookout on a spiral staircase.

*The Pest Broadway (VI. The area bordered by the Opera House and an octagonal square known as the Oktogon.)
Theatres, nightclubs, cabarets and museums in the neighbouring streets offer a wide range of programmes. Traditionally, the term Pest Broadway was used for Nagymezo Street where most of the theatres of Budapest are located, like the Operetta Theatre, the Tivoli Theatre, a cabaret stage known as Microscope and the Thália Theatre with no acting company of its own. Today's night programme venues have shifted more in the direction of the Academy of Music and Liszt Ferenc Square.
Mai Manó Studio was built by the famous photographer as his studio-apartment, the neo-Renaissance palace today hosts the legendary "Sun Shine Studio", three photograph exhibitions and a bookstore.

*Grand Market Hall (IX. Fovám körút 1-3.)
The largest and richest indoor market in Budapest was built at the end of the 19th century when open market facilities were no longer able to satisfy the needs of a growing city. The construction of five market halls was thus started and the Grand Market Hall was the most attractive and interesting shopping site. Its neo-Gothic architecture links the building to a forgotten époque, but its state-of-the-art steel structure and logical interior furnishing show early signs of modern functional architecture. It is still a very busy and vivid market, definitely worth a visit if you wish to get a glimpse of the everyday life of ordinary Hungarians. Foreign diplomatic delegations often get shown round here. Since being restored to its original glory in 1994, it is well worth a visit.
Open: Monday 6.00-17.00, Tuesday-Friday 6.00-18.00, Saturday 6.00-14.00

*Jewish heritage & the Great Synagogue (VII. Dohány u. 2-8.)
The earliest traces of Jewish communities in Hungary date back to the 11th century. Jews were granted rights to liberty and freedom of worship by Béla IV after the Tatar invasion.
They were renowned for being the treasurers and chamberlains of the royal administration from 1220. The medieval Mint stood near Szt. György Square in the Buda Castle and the first Jewish quarter was formed here. When Buda was recaptured from the Turks in 1686, the Jews were also expelled. In the 18th century they helped to create a flourishing industrial city in Ancient Buda (Óbuda) and near today's Árpád bridge with famous dyeing workshops and a textile factory established by the reputed Goldberger family. The late 18th century witnessed the birth of new Jewish communities in Pest and the then largest synagogue in the world was constructed between 1854 and 1859 on what is today called Dohány Street. During the Second World War 600,000 of the 724,000-strong Jewish population in Hungary perished in Nazi concentration camps.
The Synagogue: The world's second largest and Europe's largest synagogue, with seating for 3000. It was built in the middle of the 19th century in Romantic style for the around 30,000 Jewish community of Pest mainly living in this part of the town. Its gigantic hall rests on cast iron columns and arches - a real architectural novelty at that time. Visit the Jewish Museum in the adjacent building.

* The Millenium Underground (VI. now M1 or yellow line)
The Millennium Underground stretching under Andrássy út was put into service in 1896 as the first underground train system on the Continent, carrying passengers over the four kilometres in less than ten minutes. Today, the subway transports passengers in modern carriages but through authentically refurbished tunnels. Visitors are invited to stop off at the stations every now and then to look at the little exhibitions at each station.

*Academy of Music (VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 8.)
The Academy of Music is located next to Andrássy út and Oktogon. Officially called the Ferenc Liszt College of Music Art, it was founded in 1875 and first presided over by the new institution's co-founder and eponym; its first managing director was the world famous composer Ferenc Erkel. The Academy today not only trains musicians to the highest standard, but it also functions as the centre of concert life in Budapest. The Art Nouveau edifice seen today was completed in 1907 featuring the richest interior decoration ever built in this style in the capital. Its large hall offers excellent acoustics for an audience of 1200; there is also a smaller concert hall with 400 seats. Even if you are not a big fan of classical music, it is worth buying a concert ticket just to admire the beautiful interior of these concert halls.

*Széchenyi Baths and Swimming Pool (XIV. Állatkerti krt. 11.)
It is one of Europe`s largest bath complexes. The atmosphere of Roman bathing culture may be felt in its light, spacious pool halls, while Greek bathing culture is reflected in the tub baths, but traces of Nordic traditions may also be found in the heat chambers, saunas and dipping pools. This first spa of Pest owes its existence to the well dug by Vilmos Zsigmondy in 1879. The present bath building was constructed in 1913. The swimming pool was built in 1927, but it was only open from May till September until the 1960ies, when, in 1963, it was made suitable for winter swimming as well. Since then it has been open throughout the year. The two `public bath` units were established also in 1927, today housing the mixed baths and the complex physiotherapy units (day hospital).

*Millennium Monument-Heroes' Square (VI. end of Andrássy út)
Budapest's grandest square closes off Andrássy út, with City Park right behind. Marking the end of stylish Andrássy út, this monumental edifice is a majestic memorial of the thousand-year history of Hungarians in Europe. Each part of the monument represents an important section of Hungarian history. In the focus of the semicircular colonnade stands the bronze statue of Archangel Gabriel on a 36-meter-high column, which was awarded a Grand Prix at the Paris World Exposition in 1900. According to an old Hungarian legend, the angel appeared in the dreams of first Hungarian king Saint Stephen and gave him the holy crown. The equestrian statues of the seven legendary chieftains who lead migrating Hungarians to the Carpathian Basin stand on the pedestal of the obelisk. The two circular peristyles present statues of famous kings, emperors and personalities of Hungarian history. The solemnity and pomp of the statue park is further heightened by the two old museum buildings on either side: the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art.

*Vajdahunyad Castle (in the city Park, end of Andrássy út)
Probably the most fascinating edifice in the City Park. The castle was originally built of timber and cardboard for the World Exhibition organized in 1896 to mark the thousandth anniversary of the arrival of the Magyars in the Carpathian Basin. Its aim was to give the visitor an insight into Hungary's architectural past. Every section of the edifice is different, featuring a small-scale reproduction of various buildings in the country representing different historical and architectural styles. The castle is a true representation of a thousand years of Hungarian architecture in one single monument, and was such a success at the exhibition that it had to be rebuilt later in brick and stone. Today Vajdahunyad Castle is the home of the Hungarian Agricultural Museum.

- II - Budapest: City of therapeutic waters

The abundance of medicinal waters in Budapest is unparalleled. A capital city featuring the highest number of medical thermal springs in the world, Budapest was granted the title of "Spa City" in 1934. The Celts and the Romans used the hot springs on the Buda side, and the name of Aquincum may also refer to the springs. (The name may be a derivation from the Celtic word for 'water', or from the Latin aqua quinque, 'five waters'.)
There is probably no other capital city on the globe with swimming pools and bathing halls dating back to the Turkish occupation and still in use today, with thermal spas irradiating the rich colours and forms of Art Nouveau and featuring one of the largest spas in Europe.
Natural springs and wells in the territory of Budapest (a total of 118 different sources) provide up to 30,000 cubic metres of 21-76° C thermal water every day: mostly dolomitic water ranging from lukewarm karst to thermal hot water. Romans used 14 thermal spas, and a British traveller reported 10 spas in Turkish times (1669). There are 24 medical spas, public baths, indoor and outdoor swimming pools in the capital today, ten with a special medical capacity and therapeutic value. The following provides a brief introduction to the most interesting ones:

*Gellért Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool (XI. Szent Gellért tér 1.)
The present building of the baths and hotel called Szt. Gellért Gyógyfürdo és Szálló was erected in 1918 and opened to the public on 26th September of that year. The wave pool was built in 1927, and the `champagne` bubble pool was constructed in 1934. The spa, well-known throughout the world, is the most popular spa among foreign visitors. Nearly all medical services of a spa are available, with rheumatology, comprehensive physiotherapy unit (day hospital), physiotherapy sub-unit and inhalatorium. Besides the `champagne` and wave pools, the sunbathing terraces for women only and for mixed naturists are popular. These are open from April to late September. Hotel guests regularly use the services of the spa.
Come here for a night swim in the outdoor pools on Friday and Saturday nights before midnight.

*Király Thermal Baths (II. Fo u. 82-86.)
The history of the baths dates back to Ottoman rule in Buda. The Pasha of Buda, Arslan, is assumed to have started building the baths in 1565 so that, should there be a seige, there would be a baths in a protected area within the town walls. The present name was given by the König family who owned the building from 1796. The impressive baths is a rare survival of Turkish times in Hungary and today as a listed building it represents an early Ottoman baths palace in its original grandeur. It is supplied with thermal water piped from the Lukács Baths.

*Lukács Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool (II. Frankel Leó út 25.)
The present baths was built in 1894, and until the Széchenyi Baths was ready it was the biggest and most popular spa in Budapest. Besides the thermal baths the swimming pool is also a favourite meeting place for writers and artists. The 1800sq.m area around the spa is a popular place for relaxation with its century old trees. A drinking hall here offers curative waters. On the sidewall of the spa plates of gratitude hang showing how many people from different countries of the world have visited the baths and recovered here. The comprehensive physiotherapy unit (day hospital) deserves special emphasis from among all the services of the spa.

*Rudas Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool (I. Döbrentei tér 9.)
The baths is believed to have been built in the 1550s and rebuilt by Pasha Sokol Mustafa in 1566. At that time it was called `Green Columned Baths`. The centre of the present Rudas Baths, the Turkish bath, was formed during the Turkish occupation. It has an octagonal pool under a 10m-span dome supported by eight columns and surrounded by a barrel-vaulted corridor. It exists today almost in its original form and is the core of the present baths. The swimming pool dates from 1896 and was the second indoor pool in Budapest. The thermal baths is popular with all ages, though is for men only. The swimming pool, which operates as a medicinal pool, is primarily visited by the elderly. However, children`s groups also visit in large numbers. Several generations have learnt to swim here. There are also complex physiotherapic services (daily hospital) offered on the second floor of Rudas Gyógyfürdo.

*Széchenyi Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool (XIV. Állatkerti krt. 11.)
It is one of Europe`s largest bath complexes. The atmosphere of Roman bathing culture may be felt in its light, spacious pool halls, while Greek bathing culture is reflected in the tub baths, but traces of Nordic traditions may also be found in the heat chambers, saunas and dipping pools. This first spa of Pest owes its existence to the well dug by Vilmos Zsigmondy in 1879. The present bath building was constructed in 1913. The swimming pool was built in 1927, but it was only open from May till September until the 1960ies, when, in 1963, it was made suitable for winter swimming as well. Since then it has been open throughout the year. The two `public bath` units were established also in 1927, today housing the mixed baths and the complex physiotherapy units (day hospital).

- III - Budapest : City of Culture and Entertainment

*Theaters & Concerts
Budapest has a great tradition in hosting special events and prestigious festivals: each of the four seasons has its own festival in Budapest.
The Hungarian capital is also the centre of the country's theatrical and music life. Two amphitheatres are the earliest reminders of an acting tradition. The first theatre of Pest opened in 1719. The first official theatre ensemble made its appearance in the Castle Theatre in 1790. Today there are over 40 theatres in Budapest.
The State Opera House, the Parliament building, Matthias Church, St. Stephen's Basilica, the Academy of Music and the Synagogue offer an exclusive location and remarkable atmosphere for classical music concerts.
Indoor and open-air sports stadiums attract thousands to frequently organized pop concerts.

*Cuisine
Budapest has over 1,000 restaurants offering Hungarian and international cuisine. You will not have any difficulty in finding a place to eat which suits your taste and budget. Only larger restaurants have their menus printed in foreign languages.
Waiters usually receive a tip in restaurants, which is about 10-15% of the bill. Service is included in the price at some places, where no tip is expected. Before ordering make sure you know the prices (a five-digit price for one dish is unrealistically high).

- Articsoka (VI. Zichy Jeno utca). Open: noon-midnight daily, All major credit cards, Metro: M3 Arany János u.
One of Budapest's newer arrivals, Articsoka (meaning Artichoke) is a swanky affair located just behind the Opera Theatre. As you might have guessed, extended opening hours mean that the restaurant has both breakfast and lunch menus. With dishes mainly influenced by Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, the Articsoka is a welcome addition to this part of town.

- Belcanto (VI. Dalsínház utca 8.). Open: 6pm-2am daily, All major credit cards, Metro: M1 Opera
Charming restaurant situated a few yards away from the Budapest Opera. Specializing mainly in pasta and seafood dishes, Belcanto is best known for it's singing waiters (downstairs only), who'll take any opportunity to form a chorus line as they emerge from the kitchen. Service swings along nicely too. Fairly expensive, but a good time almost guaranteed.

- Buena Vista (VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 4-5.). Open: 11am-1am daily, Metro: M1 Oktogon
A trendy new haunt in the recently rejuvenated area around Liszt Ferenc Square, Buena Vista is a café/brasserie which not only boasts a large open terrace, but a likeable dining area inside. With fine attention to detail, light lunches and sandwiches are both well above the norm, while Buena Vista also offers an excellent choice of beers, wines and spirits.

- Kaltenberg Bajor Kiralyi Brewery and Restaurant (IX. Kinizsi u. 30-36.). Open: noon-midnight daily, Metro: M3 Ferenc Krt.
Traditional Bavarian meat dishes (including crispy roast knuckle with horse-radish and shank of pork with bacon) feature neatly alongside beer-friendly Hungarian food in a cavernous venue close to Üllöi út. A fun, enjoyable atmosphere, live music and excellent draft Kaltenberg all make the Bajor Kiralyi a local favourite.

- Friday's (VI. Vaci út 1-3, WestEnd City Centre.). Open: Mon-Fri 11.30am-11pm, Sat 11.30am-12am, All major credit cards, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu.
The ubiquitous TGI's has gone down a storm in Eastern Europe despite there being far better dining options in both Budapest and Prague. That said, food quality is consistent, the cocktails fun and service first rate. Be warned though, this WestEnd City Centre restaurant suffers from being both noisy and crowded.

- Ghandi (V. Vigyázó Ferenc u. 4.). Open: Mon-Sat 10am-11pm, All major credit cards, Metro: M3 Arany János u.
One of the few vegetarian restaurants in Budapest to successfully provide a combination of good value, well-cooked, main meals, soups and salads. The décor is fun too, with an array of gurus on display.

- Govinda (V. Belgrád rakpart 18.). Open 12pm-9pm Tue-Sun, No credit cards, Tram 47, 49
Great location by the banks of the Danube, compensates for the distinctly average vegetarian cuisine at Govinda. Set meals lack adventure, although prices are very reasonable.

- Café Astoria (V. Kossuth Lajos utca 19-21.). Open: 7am 11pm daily, Metro: M2 Astoria
A truly opulent setting in which to enjoy a light pastry and coffee, the interior of the Café Astoria retains an untouched turn-of the-20th-century charm. Reasonable prices, although service is pretty unremarkable (part of the Hotel Astoria).

- Café Gerbeaud (V. Vörösmarty tér 7.). Open: 9am 9pm daily, Metro: M1 Vörösmarty tér
The most famous of Budapest's 'old style' coffee houses, the Gerbeaud has been in the business of creating mouth-watering cakes and pastries for over 140 years.
Originally established by the innovative Swiss confectioner Emil Gerbeaud, the interior of this turn-of-the-20th-century building creates a wonderfully lavish setting in which to sample the coffee culture of the city's 'golden era'. Next door, the new Gerbeaud restaurant promises to offer culinary delights to the same high standard. Another must visit!

- New York Kávéház (VII. Erzsébet körút 9-11.). Metro: M2 Astoria, Tram 4, 6
Previously shrouded under scaffolding and a dirty black exterior, visitors 'not in the know' would simply pass by the New York Kávéház without discovering the wonderfully lavish neo-Baroque interior of this turn-of-the-20th-century building. Unfortunately, the café, which was once the haunt of Budapest's most famous poets and playwrights, was rammed unceremoniously by a Russian tank during the 1956 uprising (it also suffered significant bomb damage during WWII). Until now the resultant structural damage was deemed too costly to repair.
All that is set to change, however, following the acquisition of the New York Palace (in which the café is housed) by Italian hotel group Boscolo. Promising to spend 8 Billion HUF on restoration work alone, they are currently transforming the building into a luxury 235 room, five star hotel. Unfortunately for those hoping to visit in the meantime, the New York will remain closed until 2004 (at least).

- Cactus Juice (VI. Jókai tér 5.). Open: noon-2am, Mon-Thu, noon-4am Fri-Sat, 4pm-2am Sun, Metro: M1 Oktogon, Tram 4, 6
Although on the face of it a Wild West theme bar in downtown Pest may seem just a bit tacky, Cactus Juice actually works quite well. Cuisine follows suit with a variety of burgers and Tex-mex dishes. Largely Hungarian clientele with music in the evenings.

- Crazy Café (VI. Jókai utca 30.). Open: 11am-1am daily, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu.
Most of us have thought at one time or another, that sampling every beer in a pub would be a particularly courageous thing to do. Very few of us actually try it however. Succumb to the temptation at Crazy Café and quite simply, you'll find yourself on the wrong end of a stomach pump. Not content with offering around 20 draught beers, Crazy's owners stock five times as many bottled beers, copious amounts of spirits and virtually every cocktail under the sun (plus a few more besides). Thankfully the bar menu, which comprises mainly of pizza and simple Hungarian fare is much easier to grasp.

- Incognito (VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 3.). Open 10am-midnight Mon-Fri, 12pm-midnight Sat-Sun, Metro: M1 Oktogon
A large, trendy bar with loud jazz sounds and an adventurous cocktail menu. As you'd expect, the place gets rather packed during the summer, with the young crown alternating between here and Café Mediterranean just across the street.

- Múvesz (VI. Andrássy út 29.). Open: 9am-midnight daily, Metro: M1 Opera
Another classic Budapest coffeehouse, this time located on the busy Andrássy boulevard (and just a short walk away from the State Opera House) A perfect spot to while away the hours with a decent cappuccino and cake, Múvesz is a recommended visit.

- Arigato (VI. Teréz körút 23). Open: Mon-Sat noon-11pm, All major credit cards, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu.
Small but impressive Japanese restaurant with a wide-ranging menu selection, plus separate sashimi and sushi offerings. Lunch time specials are a real boon, while service is considered to be first rate.

- Ristorante Krizia (VI. Mozsár u. 12).Open: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-12am daily, Metro: M1 Opera/M1 Oktogon
Having read some complimentary reviews about the (then newly opened) Krizia, we expected the restaurant to be fairly full on the Tuesday lunchtime that we visited. However, it seems Budapest's populous have yet to take the plunge and we were greeted instead by the sight of a completely empty restaurant. So, with the place to ourselves, we set about choosing from the many home made pastas and daily specials on offer. And delicious they were too! Our main courses of spinach and ricotta ravioli, home made cannelloni and risotto of langoustines were all a cut above the norm. Finishing off with equally impressive caramelized fruit pancakes and a chocolate torte, we're happy to be among the critics who rave about this place. Recommended!

- Gundel (XIV. Állakérti út 2.). Open: midday-3pm, 7pm-11pm daily, All major credit cards, Metro: M1 Hosök tér
Reawakened from its slumber by Hungarian-American restaurateur George Lang in 1992, the Gundel is without doubt the city's finest restaurant. With millions of dollars invested into recreating the original turn-of-the-20th-century atmosphere, the cuisine in this fine Art Nouveau establishment remains faithful to the ideals of founder János Gundel. Masterchef Kálmán Kalla's menu is well-executed, with innovative personal touches such as goose-liver parfait with Tokaiji Aszu gelée and smoked trout will dill crayfish. Although a meal here costs around 12,000 HUF per head (unless you take advantage of the fixed price special lunch menu), the expense is borne out by the fact that both the Prince of Wales and Queen Elizabeth II have dined here.

- Bombay Palace (VI. Andrássy út 44.). Open: 12pm-2.45pm, 6pm-11.15pm daily (including Sat/Sun Brunch), All major credit cards, Metro: M1 Oktogon
Self proclaimed as 'India's culinary ambassador' to the world, the Budapest branch of this international chain doesn't disappoint. Although it's mainly Brits and Americans that eat here, locals are now also coming in greater numbers. The Bombay's two large dining rooms, with chandeliers and marble flooring, are suitably impressive for a restaurant just a short walk away from the Opera. An all too tempting pickle tray, a decent chicken pakora starter and delicately spiced beef rogan josh made up our meal. Finishing with a refreshing lemon sorbét we were suitably impressed. Amstel on tap helped fire fight those hotter moments during the meal, while impeccable and friendly service rounded off an excellent evening.

Hungarian wines
Hungary's annual wine production totals 4.2 million hectolitres mellowed in 22 historical wine regions. Budapest is known for its sizeable storage and bottling capacity.
Louis XIV, the Sun King, was such an admirer of world famous Tokaj wine that he termed it the "Wine of kings, the King of Wines". Wine of the Balaton region, the full-bodied Villány-Siklós, the famous wines of Eger and the Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood) in particular also enjoy a wide international reputation.
Take a sip of world famous Hungarian wines in Budapest, or enjoy a Tour de Vin!
Here are some great wine shops and places you can sample wine in town:
- Budapest Wine Society (I. Batthyány utca 59.) : Free wine-tasting on Saturdays 14.00-17.00
- House of Hungarian Wines (I. Szentháromság tér 6.) : a several-hundred-metre-long cellar labyrinth holds 450 different types of quality wine from 22 historical wine regions in Hungary. Visitors get a tasting cup at the entrance and are allowed to wander around and taste up to 70-80 different wines. Open: daily 12.00-20.00
- La Boutique des Vins (V. József Attila utca 12.)
- Wine House (VI. Jókai tér 7.)
- Prés Ház Wine Shop and Museum (V. Váci utca 10.) Over 300 quality wines; free of charge wine-tasting; engraving and decorative packing; incentive wine presents for companies; reference books and antiquities related to wine-growing. Open: Monday-Friday10.00-18.00, Saturday 10.00-14.00

*Nightlife
Many guide books on Budapest give the impression that, before the political changes of 1989, there was little in the way of nightlife. Although it's fair to say that back then most venues (especially those in university halls) were a throw back to the days of cheesy 70s disco, glitter balls and alarmingly wide trousers, locals have always found places in which to party until the early hours.
Of the more 'sophisticated' western style clubs which have sprung up since then, many come with burly bouncers, expensive beer and journeymen DJs. That said, it's still easy to find a lively salsa bar or enjoy the laid back atmosphere of a Budapest jazz club.

- Bahnhof Music Club (VI. Váci ut 1.). Open: 9pm-4am Wed-Sat, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu, Tram 4, 6
With a catchy name and some talented resident DJs (for Budapest at any rate), Bahnhof is one of the better clubs in Budapest. At weekends both dance floors are packed solid. Quite how they attract so many good looking Hungarians into a single place at any one time is beyond us. Chances of pulling=100%.

- Catedral Café (V. Váci u. 33). Open daily: 8am-1am, Metro: M3 Ferenciek tere
Café, restaurant and live music venue all rolled into one. Shows usually kick off at 7pm, while Catedral also hosts occasional DJ slots. Downtown location is a boon.

- Club 11 Music Pub (XI. Tétényi út 63. - Kelenföld Városközpont emelet). Bus 173
Buli, buli buli! as they say in Hungary - or at least down at Club 11 anyway. If the idea of boozed up Hungarians doing Zámbó Jimmy karaoke numbers doesn't scare you (for those who don't know, he was a rather unfortunate, facially challenged, gravel voiced pop star who accidentally shot himself dead) then some of the 'old school' Magyar pop almost certainly will! DJs Soviet, Sleep and Eddie handle the grooves (yep, we're not joking) while there's a fair share of good looking, friendly locals in tow. Sort of cool, in a strange way!!

- Club Fantasy (XIII. Pozsonyi út 4.). Metro: M3 Nyugati pu
Okay, so first off we thought Club Fantasy was probably a seedy strip-joint. But as with many Budapest nightspots you never can tell! Admittedly, the inspired use of mesh/chicken wire around the bar is not to everyone's taste (nor much of a fantasy really) but the clientele is a straightforward mix of bright young things who seem harmless enough. Tuborg/Guinness on tap (and a full restaurant menu) while the club also offers regular DJ sets and live music.

- E-Klub (X. Népligeti út 2.). Open: Fri 9pm-5am, Sat 10pm-5am, Metro: M3 Népliget
Located next to the Planetarium in the Népliget, E-Klub is as hedonistic as they come (in a not too subtle way either). And, with the likes of Ganxsta Zolee playing here - he's famous in Hungary - you know this place is popular. Strictly over 18s - and that's just for those visiting their website!!

- Fat Mo's Music Club (V. Nyári Pál u. 11.). Open: Mon/Tue noon- 2am, Wed noon–3am, Thu/Fri noon–4am, Sat 6pm–4am, Sun 6pm–2am, Metro: M3 Kálvin tér/M3 Ferenciek tere
A music venue, bar and restaurant rolled into one, Fat Mo's is included here (rather than on our bar/pub pages) as the club stages regular DJ sets, along with jazz, soul and blues nights. Seemingly around forever, the club has still managed to retain its popularity, both with locals and expats alike.

- Közgáz Pinceklub (IX. Fovám tér 8.). Open: Mon-Sat 8pm-5am, Metro: M3 Kálvin tér, Tram 2, 47, 49,
Student disco located in the bowels of the city's Economics University. Disco oriented grooves and a weekly karaoke are supplemented by cheap beer and no-nonsense food. Bouncers have a reputation for being real bruisers, so keep out of trouble!

- Piaf (VI. Nagymezo utca 25.). Open: 10pm-6am daily, Metro: M1 Oktogon,
Anyone with vaguely Bohemian leanings seems to wind up at Piaf, a stylish and sophisticated night-club, named of course, after the famous French Diva. Red velvet furnishings abound, while the music (which is often provided by a resident pianist) has a distinctly jazzy feel. Especially good though if you plan to impress female company.

- Süss Fel Nap (V. Honvéd utca 40.). Open: 5pm-3am daily, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu, Tram 4, 6
Laid back and wholly unpretentious, Süss Fel Nap is the sort of club where you can simply be yourself, hang out with friends and have a great time. The atmosphere is infectiously cheerful, drinks are cheap and grooves don't let up before closing time. Recommended.

- Trocadero (V. Szent István körút 15.). Open 9pm-3am Mon-Thu, 9pm-5am Fri/Sat, Metro: M3 Nyugati pu, Tram 4, 6,
Latin beats until the early hours at this centrally located club near to Margit híd. Salsa and merengue combine with a lively weekend atmosphere to make a likeable and wholly non-pretentious venue. Good fun.

*Casinos in Budapest
If you prefer to gamble, rather than dance the night away, Budapest has over a dozen casinos, most of which are sited in the luxury hotels along the Dunakórzo. Formal dress is often a prerequisite for entry (as is a sizeable wallet). All accept hard currency only (usually US dollars, sterling or Euro).

- Casino Budapest Hilton (I. Hess András tér 1-3.). Open: 7pm-2am daily, Free Entry, Metro: M2 Moszkva tér then Várbusz
Slots plus Blackjack, Caribbean Stud Poker, English Roulette, French Roulette, Red Dog and Video Poker.

- Las Vegas Casino (V. Roosevelt tér 2.). Open 2pm-5am daily, Free Entry, Metro: M1 Vörösmarty tér
Slots plus American Roulette, Blackjack, Craps and Poker.

- Tropicana Casino (V. Vígadó u. 2.). Open 2pm-5pm daily, Free Entry for Hilton guests, reduced entry for Budapest Card holders, Metro: M1 Vörösmarty tér
Popular casino just off Váci utca which is easily recognizable thanks to a bright neon entrance. And, even if you don't plan on gambling away a fortune, the Tropicana can provide a few hours entertainment without emptying your wallet. Slots plus American Roulette, Black Jack, Caribbean Draw Poker/Stud Poker and Punto Banco.

- Várkert Casino (I. Ybl Miklós tér 9.). Open: 2pm-5am daily, Free Entry, Tram 19, Bus 86/116,
The nicest of Budapest's casinos, the building was designed by Miklós Ybl - the architect responsible for the city's State Opera House. Slots plus American Roulette, Black Jack, Craps, Punto Banco and Stud Poker.

- IV - Budapest : transports

*Hungary's international AIRPORT is easy to reach from any point on the globe. Budapest Ferihegy airport has two terminals roughly 28 kilometres from the city - Hungarian Airlines MALÉV flights use Ferihegy Terminal 2A, with all other airlines flying into and departing from Terminal 2B.

*Budapest has three large international RAILWAY STATIONS: Eastern (Keleti), Western (Nyugati) and Southern (Déli).

*PUBLIC TRANSPORT in Budapest is excellent by international standards.
A part from the efficient underground, bus and tram system, Budapest can boast such unusual forms of transport as the Funicular, the Children's Railway, the Chairlift, and the interesting Cogwheel railway, put into service in 1874 making it Europe's third cogwheel railway. Its upper terminus is at a height of 427 meters on Széchenyi Hill, where the Széchenyi Lookout Tower is to be found.
Suburban trains called HÉV also form part of the public transport system. You can use them to visit such towns outside Budapest as Szentendre (from Batthyány tér) or Gödöllo (from Örs vezér tere)
Daily, 3 days or weekly tickets available in any underground station.

*There is a scheduled HYDROFOIL service on the Danube, calling at Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest between early April and early November. Voyage time: from Vienna to Budapest 5 hours, from Budapest to Vienna 6 hours. After the voyage, which takes you through scenic areas, you arrive in the heart of the town.